Another rather productive day. On holiday at the moment so spent a few more hours on the Tesla build. Today I managed to get the step down tansformer mounted in the base of the phase shift module.
As you can see it mounts directly onto the base disc. If you remember the step down transformer was originally mounted on the second level of the Tesla base. The pic below shows its original position.
I removed the whole module including the perspex base. After separating the transformer from the base I used the old base to mark drill points onto the base disc of the phase shift module. After drilling these holes I fixed the transformer to the base disc using the original ceramic pillars.
This left a couple of jobs to finish up. Two M12 flex glands were fitted by drilling two 10.7mm clearance holes and tapping out to 12mm. I also drilled six 12mm holes in the top disc, these are purely for ventilation. There are 7 similar holes in the base around the transformer and as the base stands on small cork pads air should be able to circulate up through these holes and out the vent holes in the top.
I took a picture of the main power module and the phase shift module together just to show you how I have tried to design them with the same look.
Still have wiring to finish up and few other touches to the phase shift module but I think I have achieved a matching module.
Here's the module that replaces the repositioned step down module. It's a rather large 40microfarad capacitor and is part of the phase shift circuit.
The capacitor has a central M8 mounting bolt which screws into a vertical perspex 8mm thick square. This square is bolted to the perspex base and is reinforced by a secondary perspex square flush up against it and also bolted to the base.
Again, just a bit of wiring needed to finish off.
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This is my blog of current hobbies, at the moment that happens to be all things Tesla so I have decided to build a Tesla coil and, as usual, I will go completely over the top with it.
Showing posts with label best variac. Show all posts
Showing posts with label best variac. Show all posts
Monday, 23 April 2012
Monday, 27 June 2011
Proper Workshop
Not working on the tesla tonight, waiting for quite a lot of parts to turn up, hopefully some will come tomorrow so I can finish the Terry filter. Took some pics of my workshop first is my most useful tool, my little milling machine bought from Machinemart. It's a Clarke CMD300, I modified it by fitting a belt drive system and also x and y digital vernier scales which negates any slop in the bed.
Here's a close-up of the digital readouts. Makes a good milling machine great.
This is my little Hobbymat lathe, would like something a little larger but don't think I can fit anything else in.
As you can see, not a lot of room left.
If your interested the car is a Westfield I built a few years back. Here's another pic with it out in the sun outside the SVA centre.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Here's a close-up of the digital readouts. Makes a good milling machine great.
This is my little Hobbymat lathe, would like something a little larger but don't think I can fit anything else in.
As you can see, not a lot of room left.
If your interested the car is a Westfield I built a few years back. Here's another pic with it out in the sun outside the SVA centre.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Labels:
best tesla coil,
best variac,
build a tesla,
clarke milling machine,
hobbymat,
how to build a tesla coil,
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paul walsh,
Perspex,
terry filter,
tesla build,
tesla coil,
variac,
westfield
Sunday, 19 June 2011
Saturday, 18 June 2011
Worlds nicest Variac
The first bit of the build was to create a case for the variac. I thought it looked really good and it would be a shame to stick it in a metal box. Decided to keep it on display by casing it in perspex. Had lots of small taps and stainless allen key bolts hanging around so decided to bolt it together rather than glue. Trent Plastics was found (eBay again), a supply of many types of plastic sheet and tube. They can supply cut to size so saved me hours of measuring and cutting. The main tube is 250mm diameter 6mm wall, the top holds all the weight so I went for 8mm thick clear perspex. The base is 5mm thick in black cos I thought the base would get scratched pretty quick so clear was probably not a good idea. The next pic shows Variac fitted to top plate and top plate bolted to main tube. Bolts are M3 so not a lot of room for error when drilling holes in the main tube.

After drilling and tapping to fit the base I decided to fabricate some handles which would be fitted to the 4 bolts that mount the Variac to the top plate which meant there would be no stress to the perspex when lifting. Also drilled some vent holes in the base and the top plate, small feet on the base provides clearance for air to enter circulate passed the coils and then out through vent holes in the top plate. Drilled 12mm holes for retro style 20amp switch and 3 10.7mm holes for the glands. The glands have a 12mm 1.5 tpi thread so another ebay purchase was required for the tap and 10.7mm drill bit.

Well happy with the result, handles are solid 16mm aluminium rod, I milled the ends so the M8 x 70 bolts sit nice.

Vent holes are 12mm, you have to go quite slow when drilling otherwise the perspex just melts. Worked well clearing the swarf regularly off the bit. May need more vents, just have to see how it goes.

Switch sits in another 12mm hole. Room for extra vent holes either side of the switch if needed.

Here you can see the 3 glands. One will be 240v mains in, one will be 240v out via switch (may use for quench fan) the other is variable voltage out via the variac. Wiring is the next job.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
After drilling and tapping to fit the base I decided to fabricate some handles which would be fitted to the 4 bolts that mount the Variac to the top plate which meant there would be no stress to the perspex when lifting. Also drilled some vent holes in the base and the top plate, small feet on the base provides clearance for air to enter circulate passed the coils and then out through vent holes in the top plate. Drilled 12mm holes for retro style 20amp switch and 3 10.7mm holes for the glands. The glands have a 12mm 1.5 tpi thread so another ebay purchase was required for the tap and 10.7mm drill bit.
Well happy with the result, handles are solid 16mm aluminium rod, I milled the ends so the M8 x 70 bolts sit nice.
Vent holes are 12mm, you have to go quite slow when drilling otherwise the perspex just melts. Worked well clearing the swarf regularly off the bit. May need more vents, just have to see how it goes.
Switch sits in another 12mm hole. Room for extra vent holes either side of the switch if needed.
Here you can see the 3 glands. One will be 240v mains in, one will be 240v out via switch (may use for quench fan) the other is variable voltage out via the variac. Wiring is the next job.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Labels:
auto transformer,
best tesla coil,
best variac,
build a tesla,
drilling acrylic,
drilling perspex,
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how to build a tesla coil,
neon transformer,
nikola tesla,
paul walsh,
tesla coil,
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